LEAVING THE WHITE RIVER IN SEPTEMBER BY DENNIS SCHULE

Making the decision to go fish somewhere else in September seems a little crazy but that's exactly what my wife, Mary, and I decided to do again this year. Usually we head off to Montana, Alaska or somewhere out west for a little break from the guiding season here in Arkansas on the White River. September brings fewer crowds and much more pleasant temps for a vacation.  

So this year we decided to hook up to our travel trailer and head out to Durango, Colorado.  Prior to leaving I made most of the necessary reservations including booking a guide to fish the San Juan River in New Mexico and also booked our tickets to take a ride on the Durango/Silverton narrow gauge railroad.  We were to fish the San Juan River on September 9th.  Our tickets to ride the railroad were for September 7th.

On the recommendation from one of my fishing clients, I booked our guide with Duranglers located in downtown Durango, Colorado.  

We departed Midway, AR. on September 3rd and arrived at the United Campground just outside Durango, Colorado.  This is a really nice, private, quiet campground with all the amenities a campground should have.  The Durango/Silverton train passes right through the campground and our campsite was located about 100 feet from the train.

Once we got the camper all set up we decided to head into Durango and do the normal tourist stuff.  Walking around downtown Durango we immediately realized what a great little town this is.  It is very clean and loaded with shops and restaurants.  It took a little while to adjust to the altitude change.  Coming from the flatlands of Midway, AR and arriving in Durango which sits at around 6,000 feet, you had to work a little harder to catch your breath.  Durango also has a fantastic walking/biking path that runs for about eight miles along the Animas River.  It meanders right through town and ends outside of town by the Home Depot.  We took advantage of the path and exercised our dog Tyrone at a much higher altitude than normal.

We stopped into Duranglers Fly Shop to confirm our reservation for the San Jun River and were pleasantly surprised with the shop.  Duranglers is very well stocked with clothing, gear and fly tying supplies.  If they don't have what you are looking for you probably don't need it. 

On September 7th, we boarded the Durango/Silverton train and headed for the 4 1/2 hour train ride to Silverton, Colorado.  Most of the trip travels along the Animas River with fantastic scenery.  Upon arrival in Silverton, an old mining town, you have a couple of hours to grab lunch and tour the town, which doesn't take long.  Then you board the train for the ride back to Durango.  We found out that we had the option of taking a charter bus back to Durango instead of riding the train.  We should have taken advantage of this option as the ride back seemed a bit long.

On September 9th we met out guide, Les Vance, at Duranglers Fly Shop.  As I said this is a very well stocked fly shop.  The staff is tremendous, friendly and knowledgeable, and very willing to help.  I would highly recommend Duranglers Fly Shop to anyone wishing to fish in the Durango area or the San Juan River in new Mexico.

We loaded our gear into Les's Toyota SUV and headed for New Mexico, which is about a 50 minute drive.  During the ride Les and I talked about the guide business and shared some stories about guide trips that would otherwise be kept in the vault with anyone other than another guide. We arrived at our put-in location, Texas Hole, below Navajo Dam, and we slipped into our waders while Les launched his drift boat.  Les rigged our rods and tied on midges so small you could hardly see them.  Then we hit the river and started our drift.

Mary, as usual, hit first with a nice fat rainbow.   After Mary landed a couple more rainbows I finally got on the board.  We managed to catch fish for the entire day with numbers pushing 30 fish.  We didn't manage to catch one of those mojumbo San Juan fish but still had a blast.  Les was an excellent guide.  He knew the river very well and continually changed flies keeping us in fish all day. 

We drifted about 3 1/2 miles and did have the opportunity to exit the boat and wade fish in a couple of spots.  Overall, the fishing was very good and it was great for me not having to do anything other than fish and relax.  At the end of the day the rain moved in and we got pounded at the take-out location but it never negatively impacted our day.  

If you are planning on fishing the San Juan River I would recommend contacting Duranglers Fly Shop and request Les Vance to guide you on your trip.

The last leg of our Colorado trip was heading to Mesa Verde National Park to view the Indian ruins.  We arrived at Mesa Verde on September 12th and immediately headed for our campsite.  We once again got the camper set up and checked out the park map to see where we could go to do some self-guided tours.  We spent that afternoon taking in some of the sites and scenery.  

The next day we did some more self-guided tours and hiking and were amazed at how these Indian ruins are so well preserved.  The National Park Service has done a tremendous job at controlling the tourists to make sure they don't destroy the sites.  The next day we took two ranger-guided tours.  These tours require reservations and the purchase of tickets.  The prices are very reasonable for what you get.  The first tour started out with a medical emergency involving an elderly gentleman who probably shouldn't have been on the tour in the first place. It appeared that he had numerous medical problems. The sites are sitting at about 7,000 feet in elevation and involve climbing ladders and crawling through tunnels. Both ranger- guided tours were very informative and the rangers really knew their stuff.  

If you are ever in this part of Colorado you should make it a point to visit this National Park.

Overall it was a really good trip to Colorado and New Mexico.  The only thing I didn't accomplish was to fish the Animas River.  Due to heavy rains, the Animas River blew out and turned to chocolate milk for three days.  So I guess we just have to return someday and give it a try.  It is a very interesting river with a lot of potential.

As for now, we are back in beautiful Arkansas and the White River is fishing well.  It's back to the guide trips.  I say I'm back to work but others just laugh.

JOHN BERRY FISHING REPORT 9/26/2014

During the past week, we have had rain (less than an inch here in Cotter), cooler temperatures and moderate winds. The lake level at Bull Shoals fell four tenths of a foot to rest at five and five tenths feet below seasonal power pool of 661 feet. This is thirty nine and five tenths feet below the top of flood pool. Upstream, Table Rock fell four tenths of a foot to rest at six feet below seasonal power pool and twenty feet below the top of flood pool. Beaver Lake one and six tenths feet tenths to rest at seven and six tenths feet below seasonal power pool or sixteen and two tenths feet below the top of flood pool. On the White, we had significant generation in the afternoon and lower generation in the morning with wadable water. Norfork Lake fell four tenths of a foot to rest at six and two tenths feet below seasonal power pool of 555.7 feet and thirty and four tenths feet below the top of flood pool. On the Norfork, we had wadable water every day with limited generation in the afternoon.

The water level for the top of power pool has been reset for the lakes in the White River system. All of the lakes on this system are well below seasonal power pool. With temperatures moderating, we should receive more wadable water.

On the White, the hot spot was Buffalo Shoals. The hot flies were olive woolly buggers, Y2Ks, prince nymphs, zebra midges (black with silver wire and silver bead or red with silver wire and silver bead), pheasant tails, ruby midges, pink and cerise San Juan worms, and sowbugs. Double fly nymph rigs have been very effective (try a flashback beadhead pheasant tail nymph with a ruby midge or red fan tail midge suspended below it).

It is hopper time! There is a bumper crop of grasshoppers this year and the trout are already keying in on them. I favor shorter leaders (seven and a half foot 3X) and a stiff six weight rod to proper deliver these weighty flies. My favorite flies are Dave’s hoppers and the western pink lady. To increase hook ups I always use a dropper. I am currently using a ruby midge in size eighteen on a three foot or longer tippet (depending on the depth of the water I am fishing).

The higher flows that we have been getting on some afternoons have been conducive to fishing large streamers. You need a fast sinking sink tip line and an eight weight or better rod. This is a heavy lift that requires casting skills and patience.

The Buffalo National River and Crooked Creek are clear and low. With the cooler weather, the smallmouths are still active. The most effective flies are Clouser minnows and crawfish patterns. Carefully check the water level before entering Crooked Creek or the Buffalo River. There are no dams on these streams. They both have large drainages and are prone to flooding during and following any rain event. The water can rise very quickly. 

The Norfork River has fished much better recently. With little wadable water on the White, there has been more angling pressure on the Norfork. The most productive flies have been small midge patterns like ruby midges, zebra midges (black or red with silver wire and silver bead) and soft hackles like the green butt. Double fly nymph rigs have been very effective. Try a small bead headed nymph (zebra midge, copper John or pheasant tail) suspended eighteen inches below a brightly colored San Juan worm (hot fluorescent pink or cerise). There have been reliable hatches of small midges (try a size 24 Adams parachute) and caddis (try a size 18 elk hair caddis).The fishing is better in the morning and late afternoon and tapers off midday.  

With school back in session, there is less fishing pressure on Dry Run Creek. Now would be a great time to fish it. The hot flies have been sowbugs, Y2Ks and various colored San Juan worms (worm brown, red, hot fluorescent pink and cerise). While you are there take a few minutes to visit the adjacent Norfork national Fish Hatchery. It is fascinating. Be sure and remove your waders before entering to prevent the spread of aquatic diseases.

The water level on the Spring River is a low and clear. This is a great place to wade fish, when they are running water on the White and Norfork Rivers. Canoe season is over and there are fewer boats on the river to interfere with your fishing. Be sure to wear cleated boots and carry a wading staff. There is a lot of bedrock that can get very slick. The hot flies have been olive woolly buggers with a bit of flash, cerise and hot pink San Juan worms and Y2Ks.

The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission is making repairs to the Dam at the State Fish Hatchery at the Dam Three Access. During this process water may be diverted from the main channel to the north channel that runs alongside the parking lot resulting in a rise in the water level there of up to two feet. The access will remain open to the public although the parking may be limited to the lot on the North side of the railroad tracks during busy times. All users are requested to exercise extreme care when in the area.

Remember that the White and Norfork Rivers and Dry Run Creek are infected with didymo, an invasive alga. Be sure and thoroughly clean and dry your waders (especially the felt soles on wading boots) before using them in any other water. Many manufacturers are now making rubber soled wading boots that are easier to clean and are not as likely to harbor didymo.

REAL MEN FISH PINK WORMS BY JOHN BERRY

Last weekend I had a two day guide trip with two men from Florida, Willie and Ken. Both were retired professionals and were in their mid to late seventies. As is my normal procedure, we fished the White River on the first day and the Norfork the next. We floated the White and waded the Norfork. This gives them a good look at what the twin lakes area has to offer, when it comes to fly fishing for trout.

The first day, on the White, went well. We floated in the Rim Shoals area. They were running about three quarters of a generator and there was little wind. The temperature was cool but was to warm a bit as the day wore on. They used their rods and I rigged them with a bead head flash back pheasant tail with a ruby midge dropper under a strike indicator with a BB split shot. I took care to place the split shot above the tippet knot to prevent it from slipping.

We were fishing about twenty five feet from the boat and I was drifting us through every likely spot that I could find. They did well and both caught plenty of trout. Willie had the hot hand and caught a few more than Ken. We didn’t count but I estimated that we landed between fifty and sixty trout. There were no really big fish. The fish we caught averaged thirteen to fourteen inches and fought well. A fine seventeen inch rainbow was our largest trout.

Ken wanted to wade the Norfork the next day but Willie was apprehensive. He had never waded before and was not sure what to expect. I assured him that the wading was easy and I would take special care to look after him. They were staying at River Ridge Inn and the owner, Jim Smith has a great collection of waders for clients to use if needed. When we came in the first day, I showed them the wader room and suggested that they be wadered up, when I arrived the next day, so that we would be ready to fish early.

I arrived there a few minutes early and donned my waders. They were ready to go at the appointed hour and we loaded into my Suburban and drove to the access. The temperature was a bit cool and it threatened to rain, so we took our rain jackets with us. The river was on the bottom with minimum flow and gin clear water. I loaned my wading staff to Willie and we waded upstream into the Catch and Release section.

I started with the rig that we had fished successfully the day before. We had limited initial success. I had put Willie in a gentle flow with a gravel bottom that would be easy to wade but still held plenty of fish. I decided to switch him over to a grasshopper with a midge dropper. That turned out to be the winning ticket in that area and he caught several nice trout including a few on the grasshopper, although most were on the dropper.

Ken was a more experienced wader. I had loaned him a spare pair of my boots that were studded, when I saw that he had selected plain rubber wading boots to wear. I put him in some heavy water with more challenging wading but generally held some really nice trout. He caught a few trout but it was time for a change. I decided to fish a pink worm. When I suggested it, Ken gave me a knowing smile. He had lived and fished in Colorado and had a healthy respect for brightly colored worms in heavy water. I added a ruby midge as a dropper.

As I walked away, I heard the splash of a good fish on his line. I think that the worm acts as an attractor that makes the trout look at it and then they see the midge dropper. Whatever it is, he began to catch more trout. When we broke for lunch, he had done well but had only caught one trout, on the pink worm. Incredibly, it had been a stout twenty two inch male brown with a bad attitude. We fished a section of private water behind the lodge, in the afternoon, and did well there. It was a successful day.

Many times we look at a given fly and dismiss it out of hand due to its shape or color. The important thing is whether it works.

John Berry is a fly fishing guide in Cotter, Arkansas and has fished our local streams for over thirty years.

JOHN BERRY FISHING REPORT 9/19/2014

During the past week, we have had rain (less than an inch here in Cotter), cooler temperatures and moderate winds. The lake level at Bull Shoals fell three tenths of a foot to rest at five and one tenth feet below seasonal power pool of 661 feet. This is thirty nine and one tenth feet below the top of flood pool. Upstream, Table Rock fell five tenths of a foot to rest at five and six tenths feet below seasonal power pool and nineteen and six tenths feet below the top of flood pool. Beaver Lake rose seven tenths of a foot to rest at six feet below seasonal power pool or fourteen and six tenths feet below the top of flood pool. On the White, we had significant generation in the afternoon and lower generation in the morning with some wadable water. Norfork Lake remained steady at five and eight tenths feet below seasonal power pool of 555.7 feet and thirty feet below the top of flood pool. On the Norfork, we had wadable water every day with limited heavy generation in the afternoon.

The water level for the top of power pool has been reset for the lakes in the White River system. All of the lakes on this system are well below seasonal power pool. With temperatures moderating, we should receive more wadable water.

On the White, the hot spot was Rim Shoals. The hot flies were olive woolly buggers, Y2Ks, prince nymphs, zebra midges (black with silver wire and silver bead or red with silver wire and silver bead), pheasant tails, ruby midges, pink and cerise San Juan worms, and sowbugs. Double fly nymph rigs have been very effective (try a flashback beadhead pheasant tail nymph with a ruby midge or red fan tail midge suspended below it).

It is hopper time! There is a bumper crop of grasshoppers this year and the trout are already keying in on them. I favor shorter leaders (seven and a half foot 3X) and a stiff six weight rod to proper deliver these weighty flies. My favorite flies are Dave’s hoppers and the western pink lady. To increase hook ups I always use a dropper. I am currently using a ruby midge in size eighteen on a three foot or longer tippet (depending on the depth of the water I am fishing).

The higher flows that we have been getting in the afternoons have been conducive to fishing large streamers. You need a fast sinking sink tip line and an eight weight or better rod. This is a heavy lift that requires casting skills and patience.

The Buffalo National River and Crooked Creek are clear and navigable. With the cooler weather, the smallmouths are still active. The most effective flies are Clouser minnows and crawfish patterns. Carefully check the water level before entering Crooked Creek or the Buffalo River. There are no dams on these streams. They both have large drainages and are prone to flooding during and following any rain event. The water can rise very quickly.

The Norfork River has fished much better recently. With little wadable water on the White, there has been more angling pressure on the Norfork. The most productive flies have been small midge patterns like ruby midges, zebra midges (black or red with silver wire and silver bead) and soft hackles like the green butt. Double fly nymph rigs have been very effective. Try a small bead headed nymph (zebra midge, copper John or pheasant tail) suspended eighteen inches below a brightly colored San Juan worm (hot fluorescent pink or cerise). There have been reliable hatches of small midges (try a size 24 Adams parachute) and caddis (try a size 18 elk hair caddis).The fishing is better in the morning and late afternoon and tapers off midday.  

With school back in session, there is less fishing pressure on Dry Run Creek. Now would be a great time to fish it. The hot flies have been sowbugs, Y2Ks and various colored San Juan worms (worm brown, red, hot fluorescent pink and cerise). While you are there take a few minutes to visit the adjacent Norfork national Fish Hatchery. It is fascinating. Be sure and remove your waders before entering to prevent the spread of aquatic diseases.

The water level on the Spring River is a low and clear. This is a great place to wade fish, when they are running water on the White and Norfork Rivers. Canoe season is over and there are fewer boats on the river to interfere with your fishing. Be sure to wear cleated boots and carry a wading staff. There is a lot of bedrock that can get very slick. The hot flies have been olive woolly buggers with a bit of flash, cerise and hot pink San Juan worms and Y2Ks.

The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission is making repairs to the Dam at the State Fish Hatchery at the Dam Three Access. During this process water may be diverted from the main channel to the north channel that runs alongside the parking lot resulting in a rise in the water level there of up to two feet. The access will remain open to the public although the parking may be limited to the lot on the North side of the railroad tracks during busy times. All users are requested to exercise extreme care when in the area.

Remember that the White and Norfork Rivers and Dry Run Creek are infected with didymo, an invasive alga. Be sure and thoroughly clean and dry your waders (especially the felt soles on wading boots) before using them in any other water. Many manufacturers are now making rubber soled wading boots that are easier to clean and are not as likely to harbor didymo.

John Berry is a fly fishing guide in Cotter, Arkansas and has fished our local streams for over thirty years.

FALL IS IN THE AIR BY JOHN BERRY

It is mid-September and this week I realized that fall is in the air. Early the other morning I was preparing for a guide trip that day. I turned on the Weather Channel and learned that it was then fifty degrees and the high temperature that day was to be sixty six degrees. I made a few last minute changes to the clothes I was to wear that day. 

I switched from the lightweight wading shoes for a pair of L. L. Bean gumshoes and a pair of heavy wool socks. The lightweight wading shoes dry fast but were not waterproof. That is not important, when the temperature is in the nineties, but can be critical, when it is in the fifties. These have become my standard cool weather footwear for fishing from the boat in cool temperatures. I have a pair of eight inch high L. L. Bean insulated waterproof Maine hunting boots, for when the weather turns really cold. 

I also grabbed a lightweight down sweater, which is the most warmth for the least weight of any garment that I own. This is a new layer. I bought it from Patagonia this spring. It proved to be so comfortable and warm that I bought a similar one for my wife, Lori, and she loves it. 

On that day, I was to guide two ladies that had never fly fished before. Sandra is a senior bank officer and Susan is a retired executive from IBM. I figured that they would not have the proper clothing to handle the change in the weather, so I gathered up a few extra layers to carry with me. It turned out to be a good idea because Sandra was a layer short and both used a pair of the wool fingerless gloves that I carry in my wader bag. They also bought hats at rim Shoals Trout Dock, when they were purchasing their fishing licenses and trout stamps. We were quite comfortable all day and only removed the extra layer and gloves when it warmed a bit around 2:00 PM. 

This is my absolutely my favorite season of the year. It signals the end of the long hot summer. While wade fishing can usually be comfortable, fishing from the boat in hot weather can be tough. On a hot sunny day, there is nowhere to hide from the heat, when fishing from a boat. I have seen at least one angler who had rigged up a huge patio umbrella on his boat to escape the sun. It looked cool and helped him finish the day but was totally impractical for fly fishing. In the summer, you can remove just so much clothing before you are arrested. The arrival of fall changes all of that. The cooler temperatures make it much more comfortable to be outside. If it gets a little cool, all you have to do is to add another layer. 

I love the clothing of fall. We are talking about wool or fleece sweaters, jackets and pants. For the past few years I had switched to fleece garments because they are warm and easy care. Lately, I have been adding more wool garments to my fall wardrobe. With the popularity of merino wool, we have clothing that is warm when wet and can be washed in the home. The real wardrobe change that I look forward to is the addition of my felt cowboy hat. I have been fishing in this hat for over thirty years. It just looks and feels right. In addition, I like the look of fall. The leaves are turning and the grass is going dormant. It is our most beautiful season. 

Fall is here and it is time to get out there and enjoy the weather. I hope to see you out there! 

John Berry is a fly fishing guide in Cotter, Arkansas and has fished our local streams for over thirty years.