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Friday, September 11, 2015

FISHING HIGH WATER BY JOHN BERRY



If you have been out on the river lately, you have probably noticed that they are running a lot of water. The good news is that by running a lot of water they will eventually lower the lakes and create the possibility of wadable water. The bad news is that fishing water this high is challenging. Now there is a nice option, we do have some productive low water conditions every morning on the Norfork but they are very short periods and it can get a bit crowded at times. I have mostly been fishing the White lately and have learned to embrace high water conditions. The fish are still there and they are still feeding on a regular basis.

        The first thing that concerns most anglers is the sheer volume of water. They believe that high water is inherently more dangerous than shallower water.  I actually believe that the shallow water is more dangerous. In shallow water there are more rocks and other obstacles than are around in high water. In high water, you are generally safely above those obstacles. When running my boat in shallow water, I tend to hit more rocks and ding up my propeller and lower unit. During the last three years we have had low water and a lot of the guides switched over to jet drive motors which can function in much lower water. Now that we are in a high water the advantage of a jet is gone.

If you are on the river on heavy water, you won’t be able to fish and run the boat. Things are moving quickly and it is a bit harder to maintain a straight drift. I do not recommend the use of a drag chain on heavy water as it could hang up and sink the boat. Take someone with you and take turns fishing and running the boat or better yet hire a guide.

       The next thing of concern is how to get your fly down to the fish. Water this deep will require longer leaders and a lot more lead than low water.  I am currently using a leader/tippet combination that is about eleven feet long and Ihave the strike indicator (a ¾ inch Thingamabobber) set all the way up to the top of the leader.  I am currently using a double fly rig with a pink San Juan worm on the top and an egg dropper. I have talked to a lot of my fellow guides and they are all pretty much doing the same except they may be using a different dropper (some use prince nymphs, some use pheasant tails and some use midges). To get the rig down I pinch an AAA split shot about eighteen inches above the San Juan worm.

        Casting this heavy rig properly is the key to avoid being tangled. Forget the tight loop. Cast with a large open loop. With these heavy flies, split shot and strike indicator, the tendency is for the loop to crash. A big open loop helps avoid this. Whatever you do don’t rush the back cast. This will tangle your line immediately. Double fly rigs tangle easily and are difficult to untangle. Do not false cast. This is an invitation to tangle. Remember, if you are tangled, you are not fishing.

If fishing under an indicator is not your cup of tea, try fishing a grasshopper. Banging the bank with hoppers is a great way to spend an afternoon. The take of a large brown trout can be explosive. I like to tie the hopper to the end of a seven and one half foot 4X leader.  I generally add a small nymph as a dropper to increase the takes. My current favorite pattern is a western pink lady. My favorite dropper is a ruby midge. Most strikes occur as soon as the fly hits the water.

If you strictly want to target larger trout, then you should be fishing streamers. Big streamers on heavy sink tip lines are the best way to target the big ones. The problem is that this is a lot of work. Swinging an eight or nine weight with a heavy fly line and a big wind resistant streamer all day is heavy work. You don’t get a lot of takes but when you do, it can be the fish of a life time.

Don’t let the high water intimidate you. Get out there and catch some trout.

John Berry is a fly fishing guide for Blue Ribbon Guides in Cotter, Arkansas and has fished our local streams for over thirty years. 

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